Bangkok Bob’s makes its mark in Phuket

Bob Coombes knows a thing or two about premium meat cuts, given he has been importing the finest Australian beef to Thailand for over 50 years now. He opened the first ever official steakhouse in the capital way back in 1972 that bore his name and has done ever since: Bangkok Bob’s. This establishment has taken on legendary status over the ensuing years and now we have the pleasure of being able to experience the concept in Phuket.

On the evening of our visit, my dining partner and I are met by the warm staff before being welcomed into an open plan restaurant space which is bright, breezy and carries a genuinely upbeat vibe. I always think anywhere that allows open viewing to the kitchen is a venue that operates with confidence – and being able to watch these masters at work at such close quarters throughout the evening is a genuine treat.

Having been shown to our seat and after having selected our dishes from the menu, we are then offered to visit the Butcher & Gourmet Grocer room. This temperature-controlled room stocks all the premium meats and is where diners can view and select their custom cut, which is then charcoal-grilled over live fire before being served at the table.

Furthermore, this chilled facility offers customers a wide range of varied produce – from impressive meat cuts such as Australian beef, Wagyu, lamb chops and artisan sausages by the gram, to pies, imported cheeses, fresh vegetables, antipasto items, sauces, caviar and jams. I am told this isn’t just for in-house diners, as a significant number of customers pre-order for takeaway or merely pop in to select their goods of choice. This is an especially popular choice for customers staging BBQs as every possible quality meat you could imagine is on offer. We are also shown to the VIP room, a separate space that caters for private parties and can be booked on request; here the client works with the kitchen to customise a menu for the occasion.

Meat cuts selected, we return to the table where we are met by our appetizers: Iberian ham croquettes with tartare sauce and Portobello mushroom with blue cheese. Both are delicious but the former is a particular standout dish – perfectly crispy and dry on the outside, the filling is generous and packed with flavour and the accompanying sauce is by far the best tartare we have ever tasted. The mushrooms are equally enjoyable; succulent, paired perfectly with salty blue cheese and accompanied by scrumptious toasted basil leaves.

Despite how fantastic the appetizers are, however, we are here for what Bangkok Bob’s is renowned for: the steak. And boy-oh-boy we are not disappointed! The tenderloin wagyu MB6-7 is literally melt-in-the-mouth steak heaven, while the grain fed MB5 is easily on a par. Both are not only fantastic, flavoursome cuts of quality meat but they are cooked to genuine perfection. This is achieved I am told, thanks to the Josper oven. Very much the professional chef’s oven of choice and frequently referred to as the Rolls Royce of ovens, it cooks over 500°C charcoal to enable a bold, smokey flavour that permeates all the way through the cut, ensuring a perfect char on the outside while maintaining a juicy and tender inside. The accompanying side dishes of asparagus, parsnip and Bob’s fries also deserve a special mention as they were incredible, as were the two sauces we selected of pepper gravy and chimichurri.

It is a fantastic dining experience that steak aficionados will truly appreciate and which leaves us both comfortably full and satisfied – so much so that we decline dessert (a real rarity for me!) although this provides yet another reason to come back soon, as does the mention that they also host weekend events like Sunday roasts.

Bangkok Bob’s is a more than welcome addition to the ever burgeoning Phuket culinary scene and one that comes highly recommended. It is fresh, vibrant and without a hint of pretentiousness, despite its standing as a clear master and pioneer in how to best cook meat. It only took half a century for the affable Brit Bob Coombes to open shop in Phuket, but we should be glad he did; there is little doubt Bangkok Bob’s will soon forge its own reputation locally as a must-visit venue.