At Nai Harn Beach
Fresh and contemporary dining concepts combine with a stunning seaside location to inspiring effect at The Nai Harn.
Open time: Daily 6.30am-5pm
Resevation: Tel: 0 7638 0200www.thenaiharn.com
Cosmo offers a unique gastronomic experience in a paradisal setting. The flagship restaurant of the iconic Nai Harn, it occupies one of Phuket’s most coveted locations, a promontory flanking Nai Harn Bay. Featuring grey furnishings and geometric white décor, the dining area exudes space and airiness. Immediately below us, the sandy beach is framed by jagged rocks.
Executive Chef Mark Jones carefully explains the new menu. Mark has been with the Nai Harn for three years. He comes with an impressive CV in high-end restaurants and resorts and is rightly enthusiastic about a cuisine which reflects his passion both for global travel and culinary innovation.
We begin in Northern Japan. Mark’s choice of appetiser is pan-fried Hokkaido scallops with roasted cauliflower and yellow curry. The juicy shellfish are lightly seared, their succulence complemented by delicate yellow curry aromatics and nutty cauliflower complemented by a zesty coriander oil. The main course, again ocean inspired, is a fantastic ‘Triple-A’ graded tuna loin, seared to perfection and complemented by a jalapeno and caper potato salad with wild rocket and lemon.
Other chef’s recommendations reveal a capacity for adventurous combinations. Pan fried red snapper with a ragout of smokey chorizo sausage, tomato and chick peas; luxurious platters of Marennes Oleron oysters served over ice,while middle eastern falafel provides an inventive vegetarian option. For carnivores, stunning Rangers Valley Wagyu Sirloin steak marble score 6 with asparagus and organic hens eggs with Béarnaise sauce admirably fits the bill. There are artisanal ice creams inspired by local fruits and crisp organic salads.
The attention to detail is exceptional. Nothing is too much trouble. Every dish is accompanied by exquisitely chosen vegetables and herbs with matching sauces and dips. Ingredients are ultra-fresh. Most of the seafood is purchased twice daily from Rawai fish market, and there is a stress on local, organic produce. The wide-ranging meats are created in the resort’s own charcuterie, even down to regional sausages.