"I wanted a great Italian cuisine that could be enjoyed without being pretentious", said the introduction to the menu at Salvatore's - and it quickly became clear that owner Salvatore Cossu had achieved just that, and more.

The heart of Phuket Town, just a stone's throw from Phuket's biggest market, may seem a strange choice of location, but Salvatore recognised that with only one other Italian restaurant in town, he could tap straight into unsatisfied demand and be off to a running start.

That he is a 'details man' is evident from the moment you walk into his comfortable, welcoming restaurant. You could be entering an Italian friend's home - with its eclectic mixture of knick knacks, art and accumulated possessions - rather than a purpose-designed restaurant. This feeling was reinforced on the night of our visit by an Italian family of 8 or 10 people dining at the large 'kitchen table' at the back of the restaurant.

The warm yet professional welcome, the careful attention to our needs and the impeccable table settings reinforced our initial impression: this restaurateur understands that the little things make all the difference.

Scattered around Salvatore's walls are several blackboards announcing the special dishes of the day, but we decided to sample the main menu. My Zuppa di Cipolle was easily the best onion soup I'd tasted for at least a decade, while my partner's Stracciatella alla Romana demonstrated the skillfull subtlety of the Salvatore's kitchen. Pork fillet with balsamic vinegar and an irresistable Saltimbocca alla Romana arrived so perfectly presented that it was almost a tragedy to disturb them - almost. They did not disappoint, nor did the very acceptable house wine that accompanied them, a hint of Salvatore's excellent wine list ranging in price from a modest 900 Baht to the top of the 'Exclusive Selection' at 5,400 Baht. All - like the food - exclusively Italian.

That Salvatore hand picks his vegetables at the nearby market at 11:00 pm each night, then gets up next day to drive to Rawai so that he can be sure to offer only the freshets of fish is testimony to this man's thirst for the perfection - as was the constant stream of customers who ensured not an empty table during the whole of our Sunday evening visit.